Appetizers
July 17, 2013
First Impressions: Giant Orange offers burgers, shakes, fries

avocado fries.jpgSomeone with a sense of humor got carried away with music- and movie-title-oriented puns on the oversized and overwrought laminated menu at the new burgers-dogs-fries-shakes restaurant Giant Orange.

Such as "Chili-Chili Bang-Bang" for the open-face chili-smothered burger. "My Bleu Heaven" for the blue cheese burger. "Don't Go Bacon My Heart" for the bacon-topped burger.

Want more? "I Yam What I Yam" for sweet potato fries, "Lord of the Rings" for onion rings and "Dippity Do Dah" for dipping sauces. "Lettuce Entertain You" is the heading for salads.

Would you really say (out loud and in public) to the server standing at your table, order pad in hand, "I'll have the 'Yippee-I-O-Ki-Yay' burger?"

Neither would a lunch pal sitting next to me on a banquette in the impressively slick, retro-plush dining room, the walls decorated in '50s and '60s kitsch and memorabilia.

That burger turned out to be loaded with thick-cut bacon, grilled onions, cheddar cheese and barbecue sauce, with lettuce, tomato, red onion and pickle chips.

We also sampled the "burger of the month," topped with gobs of melted Swiss and cheddar and a really big green chile (along with the lettuce-tomato-onion-pickle template). Burgers are a tasty handful and range from $9 to $15.

We added Frickles, rather dense and salty battered-and-fried pickle spears ($5); curiously neutral but conceptually interesting "avocado fries" (pictured), panko-coated-and-fried avocado strips with chipotle-ranch and lime-sour cream dipping sauces ($6); and a pile of very good sweet potato fries ($5).

To wash it all down: Pulp Fiction fresh-squeezed orange juice ($3 and $4), a superb Orange Blossom Creamsicle shake ($6.50) and a Brain Freeze, "a cross between a root beer float and a milkshake," says the menu ($6).

A full "First Impressions" review of Giant Orange will appear in an upcoming Ticket section.

Giant Orange is at 1407 Howe Ave., Sacramento; (916) 564-6300, www.giantorange.com. Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays.

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